Hello From Toronto: Exploring Chinatown And Kensington (Part II)

vated by the colourful and unusual variety of storesYiddish theatres, synagogues and other political, social
we walked through narrow streets filled with a jumbleand cultural institutions developed in the area. Indeed, as
of vintage clothing stores, bakeries, restaurants, shopsBruce pointed out, Spadina Avenue became the
selling anything from fish, cheese and meat to drycentre of the Garment District which still survives on a
goods and assorted merchandise. At about 7:30 pmmuch smaller scale today – even today there
most of the stores had closed or were in the processare numerous fashion and fur stores that sell their
of closing, but the diverse and unusual storefronts andmerchandise to the public at wholesale prices. Bruce
murals illustrate the Bohemian flavour of this area.also elaborated that many of the buildings and
Bruce pointed out numerous favourite hangouts: placeswarehouses became gradually higher, a direct result of
such as Cob’s Bread, Graffiti’s Bar andthe invention of the Otis safety elevator which made it
Grill, My Market Bakery, the Chocolate Addict andfeasible to carry out industrial manufacturing on higher
many other unique nooks and crannies illustrate thelevel floors.
free-spirited character of this unusual neighbourhood.Our group then stopped at the Glen and Paul Magder
At the intersection of St. Andrew and Augusta weFur Store which was a pioneer in reforming
stopped to admire a “half a house” thatToronto’s Sunday shopping laws by staying
was attached to some flat-roofed houses and theopen on Sundays, despite heavy fines. Right around
complex was then capped off on the other side byhere we also got to admire the former location of a
another “half a house”.theatre owned by the parents of Mary Pickford, the
One of the most poignant symbols offamous Toronto born-actress,
Toronto’s multi-ethnic mixing is a restaurant“America’s Sweetheart” who
called the “Hungary Thai”, an eatery thatbecame Hollywood’s biggest star of the Silent
surprisingly combines European and Asian culinaryEra. Together with Charlie Chaplin, Douglas Fairbanks,
traditions originating in Hungary and Thailand. There isand D.W. Griffith, Mary Pickford was a cofounder of
no better area than Kensington Market to come faceUnited Artists film studios.
to face with Toronto’s culturally diverseWe then walked east on Queen Street which
makeup. Today's Kensington features residents andfeatures a whole stretch of eateries, restaurants and
merchants from all over the world, including people ofeclectic bars and taverns, including the Rivoli, an
Latin, Carribean, European and Asian origin.extremely popular bar, restaurant and pool hall. At the
Southwest of Augusta Avenue we turned ontoHorseshoe Tavern Bruce explained that many famous
Bellevue Square Park, a green space that ismusic acts of Toronto, including Blue Rodeo, got their
frequented by a very Bohemian crowd of people,start at this tavern.
representing some of Toronto’s artists andBoyd Gang, a 1950s gang of bank robbers led by
counterculture. Kensington Market is one of the fewEdwin Alonzo Boyd. The gang garnered a lot of media
areas that features Cannabis cafes and products, andattention due to its sensational actions, including bank
there is a distinct marijuana culture that pervades therobberies, jail breaks, liaisons with beautiful women, gun
area, particularly on Bellevue Square Park. Thefights and daring captures. Two of the gang members
northwest end of the park features a statue of Alwere captured and hanged for the murder of a
Waxman (1935 to 2001), a Toronto actor who starredpoliceman in 1952 while Edwin Boyd, by then a
in a popular television series “The King ofCanadian folk hero, was sentenced to eight life terms
Kensington” and was involved in numerousplus twenty seven years concurrent. He was paroled
charitable organizations and events. Bruce pointed outin 1966, relocated to British Columbia and died in 2002.
that Al’s wife Sara is immortalized on a benchJust steps further east is the “Friendship
right next to the statue in a carving that saysHouse”, where Russian refugees were taken in,
“Sara loves Al”.it is also the centre of the Communist League of
Avenue is another relic from Kensington’sToronto and the former location of the 1980s television
Jewish history. The Kiever Synagogue on Denisonseries “Street Legal”.
Square was built in 1912. Its twin towers are crownedA few steps east is a series of Victorian townhouses
with Stars of David which give it a distinctthat, as Bruce explained, were owned by two sisters
middle-eastern or Byzantine feel. Although manywho had had a serious falling out. Although the buildings
Jewish residents have left the Kensington area overwere symmetrical in appearance the sisters did their
the last few decades to move further north in the City,best to modify the architecture to ensure that each of
the Kiever Synagogue continues to be active and totheir sides would look different from the other
offer religious services every Sabbath as well assister’s property. Bruce pointed out a couple of
educational services to the remaining Jewishformer vaudeville theatres, explaining that in the era
population.before cinemas and podcasts, almost every city block
We proceeded southwards on Augusta Avenue untilhad one or more of these theatres which were
we reached Queen Street. At the corner of Augustapopular entertainment spots for the locals.
and Queen we stopped and Bruce made us aware ofAt the Corner of Queen and Soho is the Black Bull, a
one of the emblematic statues guarding the entrancesdecades old hotel and tavern that features a spacious
of Kensington: an oversized cat prancing on a globe,outdoor patio. Bruce explained that in the 1800s
an appropriately offbeat symbol of this colourfulToronto's city limits extended to Peter Street, and the
neighbourhood.tavern housed in this building was the last tavern on
Across the street Bruce pointed out the formerthe way out of town. This was at a time when a
Alexandra Park public housing complex that has beenhorse and carriage ride to Niagara Falls could take two
renamed the Atkinson Housing Co-op. Bruce explaineddays, so a final watering hole on the outskirts of town
that this residential complex was a major urbanwas important.
planning mistake and had become one ofAnother significant Toronto landmark rose up
Toronto’s most crime-ridden areas. In 2003 theimpressively in front of our eyes: Toronto’s
former Alexandra Park became Canada’s firstCHUM City Building, the main studio complex of CTV
public housing complex to be converted into aGlobemedia. The building houses City TV and its
tenant-managed, non-profit housing cooperative, afamous Speakers Corner video booth (which allows
move which has greatly improved the safety in thismembers of the public to voice their opinions on any
area.topic), Cable Pulse 24, MuchMusic, Star! and the
At the intersection of Dundas and Queen Streets, rightFashion Television Channel. Its 1914 Neo-Gothic terra
in the heart of Chinatown, Bruce stopped again tocotta façade make it an instantly recognizable
show us the Art Deco Victory Theatre, a formerlandmark in downtown Toronto, and the news truck
vaudeville theatre. He also explained that this theatrewith the turning wheels that is built into the eastern
had at some point morphed into the Victory Burlesque,façade make it a real icon of the downtown
home of famous Gypsy Rose Lee, the famouscore.
burlesque dancer who became known for putting theWell, our informative and entertaining
“tease into striptease”.Chinatown-Kensington Tour had come to an end.
The history of the Spadina area is colourful indeed.Bruce, with his dramatic abilities, was able to educate
Jewish immigrants from Eastern Europe settled in theus and entertain us at the same time, introducing us to
area from 1832 onwards, but major immigration gothistorically significant parts of the city that we had
into full swing in the 1890s. Many of these poor Jewishnever seen or simply walked by without noticing.
immigrants had little language skills and began to workAlthough a relatively young city, Toronto has a
in low-paying jobs in the garment factories that hadfascinating history, and Bruce Bell is just the guy to
sprung up near Spadina.open our eyes to it.
Numerous Jewish delicatessens, tailors, cinemas,